7:30am – 5pm Weekdays
9:00am – 12pm Saturdays

Yes. We sell our own freestanding, in-built log fires and diesel fires (including tanks), and also retail a large range from our manufacturing competitors.

Yes, we are registered on WiNZ system and can provide quotes for heating for you to take to WiNZ.

Yes, the Tropicair DUO is available in selected colours. We are pleased to announce that our Tawa Mk3 in-builts are available in an infinite colour range, including some outrageous ‘Candy’ colours (extra charges apply). Our freestanding range is also available in a range of vitreous enamel colours (extra charges apply). As standard our fires are black.

Yes. We can offer other trims and extra trims on most of our fires (extra charges apply). Essentially, if you are prepared to pay for any requested customisation, we can do it. We are sure even a custom gold-plated heater would be possible!

There is no “best” fire – only the right one for your house size and requirements. Every fire on the market has individual strengths and situations it will best suit.

Yes, we install fires purchased from us. We can organise hearth and permits also. We offer a full service from quote to sign-off in Canterbury.

See the Retailers page for other serviced locations for Tropicair fires.

All our installers are accredited through NZHHA as a MINIMUM. Even some of our office staff have been NZHHA trained to ensure you get accurate information.

Yes. Our fires are made in Christchurch, New Zealand. Parts and materials are sourced from inside New Zealand through New Zealand companies.

Yes. We still stock parts from our original fires from 25+ years ago. We will continue to do this where possible.

Yes, we can now offer 6 months interest free terms through Gem Visa. Fee’s, Charges and conditions apply.

15 Years in most NZ regions. Seek local council information where you suspect this isn’t the case. This may be different For ULEB’s and is different for diesel fires.

Yes. Our fires are on both the MFE and ECAN lists. Diesel fires are on neither list as they are outside of the clean air act and can be fitted anywhere without restrictions.

Nothing to you. It is a licence to manufacture with ECAN and doesn’t affect the customer in any way. All Log fires are permitted for 15 years’ use under a solid fuel permit.

No. As long as you are outside of a clean air zone you can have non-Clean Air Logfires and Multifuels.

Yes. All our fires can be bought as a ‘Rural’ model with increased burn times.

With the release of the new Tropicair DUO ultra Low Emission Burner (ULEB) you now can. Call or email for details.

The Ministry for the Environment (MFE) provides a list of fires which is used as a guide for approved fires by most councils and local authorities around New Zealand.

The ECAN list is used in Canterbury for approval status for consents.

Clean Air Zone 1

Ultra Low Emission Burners are allowed in new homes or home without a woodfire. You can replace an open fire, wood burner, or even pellet fire under the option of ‘replace existing solid fuel appliance’ with a normal solid fuel permit.

Clean Air Zone 2

Any fire on the ECAN/MFE approved list can be installed in new or existing homes with solid fuel consent.

Outside Clean Air Zones

Properties smaller than 2 hectares can fit any wood fire on the MFE list. Properties larger than 2 hectares have no restrictions.

Have you had you flue cleaned recently? This is the most likely cause for fires to smoke. The second most common is a bird or bird’s nest lodged in your flue.

1) Are you using fire lighters?

Best lighting results are obtained by using newspaper. Avoid glossy pages and stick to news print. Never less than 8 scrunched pieces and maybe more for larger fires. If in doubt add more scrunched paper. This creates large amounts of heat in the flue quickly and promotes Draw. Fire lighters create almost no heat other than a small flame and hence do not promote Draw.

2) Is Your Wood Wet? Or cut too big?

Kindled Wood should be no larger than the thickness of your thumb for best results. Wet wood is, however, one of the most common causes for hard lighting. Check your wood with a Moisture Meter, they are inexpensive and may save you receiving a 5Cu metre load of soaked wood. (Split and check several pieces BEFORE the truck drops it on your drive)

Modern Clean Air (C/A) appliances tend to have a higher low fire setting than was the case 15-30 yrs ago. If your fire is burning harder than desired reducing the wood load is a good way to help reduce the intensity of the fire. Do keep in mind though, although your C/A fire appears to be burning flat out, a lot of the flame you see is due to the immense secondary combustion that occurs in modern fires. The wood may look like it is burning at an alarming rate, this isn’t the case and this is why modern fires have such high efficiency. Additional Combustion cycles generate a more efficient, clean, thorough burn.

The most likely cause is inadequate draw due to lack of flue height or cowel design. Not every cowel performs as well as the others, altering cowels can have a positive or negative result. Consult us regarding options prior to purchasing.

Flue height can be a fickle thing. Flues are set up to one of a few heights -adjacent ridgelines and minimum heights for an appliance being the 2 most common. Just because a flue achieves one or both of these factors doesn’t mean it’s going to be perfect. Sometimes flues need to be tuned to the environment and the fire fitted. Adjusting flue heights and Cowel alterations are a few of the methods of ‘Tuning”.

This issue is called steam hammer. It is caused when water circulation in the wetback slows too much, generally due to insufficient rise from the wetback to the cylinder. Call your plumber for recommendations to fix this as if left untreated it can effect plumbing hardware.

Has your flue been cleaned?
If No then Clean it and recheck then proceed to the next step.

Is your wood Dry?
If you have not checked it with a moisture meter the answer is NO. The human hand is not an adequate tool for diagnosing moisture content, Neither is a wood merchant’s word (sorry wood merchants). An electronic moisture meter IS THE ONLY WAY to be 100 aware of your wood being too wet for correct combustion. Once wood is checked to between 16-20 (split and check the middle) proceed to next step.

Is your Baffle Plate inside the fire hard to the back of the fire?
If No push it hard back. If Yes proceed to next step.

Is your Baffle plate free of Debris?
Sometimes heavy winds can shake soot and creosote loose in a flue and cause it to plug the outlet of the flue from the inside. If it has been a while since a flue clean or you have had a damp batch of wood your flue can clog very fast. Return to step one if you find large levels of soot on your baffle plate. If not proceed to next step.

Are you using sufficient paper and Kindling?
Tip 1, Avoid fire lighters. They work great for diesel fires and ULEBs but not log fires. Most fires will not take well to the transition from paper to large wood. The progression to large wood should be minimum of 3 stages. Kindling/Medium wood/Logs. Kindling is thumb thickness, Medium to be up to 6cm x 6cm. Always load kindling in a staggered cross pattern for the best results (like Trellis). Proceed to next stage.

Does the flue extend at least 600mm (2 feet) above your ridge line?
It must if the ridge is within 3 meters of the outlet. If not call us for advice.

Are any trees within 3 meters of your flue outlet at the top?
Call and arborist. It can affect fire performance and can also be a fire hazard. Flue outlet must be clear by 3m of ANY obstruction at all times. The fact that trees grow most during Spring and Summer mean this can often be missed as a cause.

If nothing above has worked call us and we would be happy to advise from there.

Unfortunately this tends to be un-fixable. The minimum heights for flue systems have increased across the industry. The positives from this is fires tend to be easier to light, they draw better and burn cleaner. The negatives are then can sometimes run a little too hard and there is now an increase in wind noise as the flue is up in a cleaner airstream above your roof.

Also, Years ago a lot of cowls at the top of flue systems were fitted improperly and were hard down on the flue system. This does produce less wind noise but it also stops the flue system from ventilating. In the event of a flue fire having no ventilation gap would cause the system to overheat and would likely result in a ceiling fire. Therefore it is illegal to have your cowling hard down on your flue. A minimum 12mm gap must be maintained. Positives: you are less at risk in a flue fire. Negatives: This air gap along with the flue being higher than previous era’s causes much more wind noise.

This typically only happens when a fires flue system is brand new. A new system can draw excessively and coupled with flue systems being typically higher nowadays it can cause this whistling.

Generally with a few weeks continual use the flue will condition and this issue will stop all by itself. Should it be after 30-45 days use this problem is still their most manufacturers have alternative parts to stop this occurring. This issue was very rare but since the Christchurch quakes it has become quite common, we manufacturers are unsure why.

If this is driving you nuts, by opening the door, returning the handle to the closed position and then pushing the door against the opening (leaving the door ajar) it will silence the whistle and allow you some peace.

Like all fires some are more and less efficient. Diesel fires typically are the second cheapest form of heating after log fires. They are cheaper to run that Pellet fires, Gas fires and Powered heaters (heat pumps included)

Like all fires though, the trick to lowering running costs is Insulation and good Curtains. The more heat you can keep in the less you have to produce. Search the EECA website on Google for more details.